How To Build Jon Risch DIY Acoustic Panels

Jon Risch’s DIY Acoustic Panels have changed my system more than any other component upgrade and adjustment. After placing the panels at the early reflection and diffraction points in my listening room (two behind the speakers and four on the side walls (the two panels closest to me actually sit on armchairs because I can’t move the chairs) ) of the way)) I heard these improvements. Since that initial listening session, I’ve had mixed results from the CDs played on my Pioneer DV-47ai and Taddeo Digital Antidote II: certain frequencies and instruments are too relaxed. I will remove the Taddeo and see if I get the same great performance as my Airtunes playing Apple Lossless MAX ripped tracks.

Read on for my tips and tricks for building these panels yourself and save up to 90% on commercial acoustic panels.

Materials needed for 6 17 x 48 inch acoustic panels:

* Home Store: 24-foot R-25 insulation (15 in. Wide and 8 in. Thick)

* Home Store: 16 standard 4 foot long 1 x 4 boards

* Home Store: # 8 2 in. Screws (I bought the self-drilling type, so I just had to drill countersunk pilot holes in the long frame boards, the shortest boards to the bolts without partitions)

* Home Store: 9/16 Staples (you need the long staples to get through the many layers of fabric and batting)

* Fabric Store: 10 yards 4 oz. 100% polyester batting

* Fabric Store: 10 yards burlap (let your spouse help you choose the color, then you won’t be able to complain later)

Tools needed:

* Power Drill / Driver

* Corner Vise (I spent at least $ 8, the $ 3 broke as soon as it touched wood, costing me another trip to the store)

* Stapler (You’ll be stapling like crazy on this project, so make sure you get a good stapler, I killed my Black and Decker Powershot midway through the project and had to buy a new one that was still having blocking issues, so don’t use a Powershot, get a good Arrow pistol)

* Miter hand saw

Building

wood frames

* Combine 4-foot long studs into 6 pairs

* Take the 4 worst studs and cut them 12x 15 inches long with a manual miter saw (or table saw), make 90 degree cuts

* Take a small 1 x 4 piece and mark the depth at either end of the 4 foot struts

* Drill 2 sunken pilot holes at each end in the middle of the marked area on the long boards

* Using a 90 degree corner vice, upload a short and long post. Drill screws through the pilot holes in the short board. Repeat for the other long and short pair. You now have two “L” shapes.

* Attach the two “Ls” as in the previous step to form a 17-inch x 48-inch x 4-inch deep rectangle.

Attach insulation to frames

* With all frames finished, set up two saw horses (or storage boxes like I improvised) in an area where you can easily cut and clean fiberglass (like your garage)

* Measure the inside length of your first frame, it should be approximately 46 inches, depending on the precision of your 48 1 x 4 inches long.

* Put on your fiberglass insulation protection gear (my lift includes a respirator, suede gloves, and Tyvek overalls (sweaty))

* Partially unroll your insulation on a cut surface (such as the concrete garage floor) and measure a length of 46 inches (or whatever the previous internal length of the frame is)

* Place the frame on the saw horses with the horses approximately a quarter length from each end

* With the kraft side up, press the insulation against the frame. Staple the strips of paper to the frame, ensuring insulation.

* Set the first box aside and repeat the rest.

Polyester batting wrap frame

* Spread your polyester wadding on the same cutting surface as the insulation (you should have all of this clean now)

* Measure the length and add it to the depth of either end of the frame, including the thickness of the insulation. I decided to cut my batting lengths to 60 inches long (frame = 48 inches long + 2 x 6 inches deep) and keep the width at 48 inches.

* Place the frame on the saw horses upwards (the kraft side of the insulation on the opposite side)

* Place the polyester batting on top of the frame. Get the length as even as possible while placing the batting across the width so that the side closest to you hangs about an inch below the frame, the opposite side should hang 24 inches down.

* Put the short side batting between the bottom of the frame and the saw horses and rotate the frame towards you so that the 24 inch side falls onto the kraft side of the frame.

* Staple along the rear frame

* Cut excess batting and staple ends after folding as wrapping paper

* Make sure no insulation is exposed, batting should completely enclose the front, rear, sides, top and bottom of the entire framed fiberglass panel.

Burlap wrap frames

* Wrapping frames in burlap is like polyester batting with a few tricks

* Cut the burlap to 60 inches long (another way to suggest starting a cut on the burlap and then pulling a loose string from the cut to create a straight line to cut. This worked for me, pulling the string would clump the fabric together and then the snap, at best you would get a straight line through the middle of the cut)

* Lay the fabric on the panel unevenly and flip, wrapping the fabric around the back as described above with the polyester batting

* When pulling the burlap comfortably, staple the long sides to the back of the wooden frame

* Fold and staple the burlap at the bottom end of the frame like you’re wrapping a gift

* Remove saw horses and yank open top end to tighten front of fabric until wrinkles disappear. Cut off excess fabric and staple.

* Finished with fabric edge to cover staples

Place frames at the first reflection points in your listening room

* While sitting in your ideal spot, have a friend move a small mirror along the front and side walls. Ask your friend to mark the points along the walls where you can see the speaker drivers for the side walls and the inside corners of the speakers on the front wall (or if you didn’t like it and couldn’t). ask your eight-month pregnant wife to walk slowly with a mirror and tape; you can use a CAD application or this formula and check the calculated locations with a mirror glued to the wall in the approximate place)

* Place the panels on the mirror points (I’m just leaning mine against the wall at an angle so they won’t fall off, I’m not attaching the panels because I need to get them out of the room when not in use), bass absorption improves by place the panels at least four inches from the wall

* Listen and enjoy!

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